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### Méthode de Les nyctalopes secteur de Place Vendôme ###

Méthodes

5 dernières méthodes:

Commentaires

5 dernièrs commentaires:

  • Le 11/05/2013 jojo à dit:
    Ça a vraiment l'air très joli, j'irai bien y faire un tour!!!

    Voir le commentaire
  • Le 27/09/2012 Gilou à dit:
    Super Jojo, ça fait plaisir d'avoir du sang neuf sur Pose ta Méthode !!!

    Voir le commentaire
  • Le 14/06/2012 hanzyoyo à dit:
    C'est marrant de se dire qu'on était là!

    Voir le commentaire
  • Le 26/05/2012 Gilou à dit:
    A noter que c'est aussi Mathieu qui s'enregistre à la guitare pour la bande son !!!

    Voir le commentaire
  • Le 25/05/2012 Gilou à dit:
    T'es trop fort Mat ! Mais il serait temps d'aller courir un peu et de lâcher ton clavier !!!

    Voir le commentaire

Méthode de Les nyctalopes par Gilou

B9

Accés:

Le passage se trouve dans la zone de blocs du "millieu", c'est a dire la zone situé en haut de la petite coline.


Étape 1:

Je démarre avec pied droit un peu a plat sur un mini graton (voir étape 2) et pied gauche bien coincé avec le talon et la pointe dans un bon trou (voir étape 3). Pour les mains, je prend main droite le bord gauche du bon trou ou j'ai le pied, et main gauche un plat dièdre vraiment pas bon …

 
 

Étape 2:

La prise pour le pied gauche.

 
 

Étape 3:

Le coincement de talon droit. Si le talon est bien calé, on a vraiment l'impression que l'on pourrait lâcher les deux mains …

Par contre attention a la parade, car qui dit talon coincé, dis genoux cassés …

 
 

Étape 4:

Je prends ensuite le premier trou bien plat avec la main droite.

 
 

Étape 5:

Je ramène main gauche dans le trou, en laissant toujours mon pied droit coincé dans le bac de départ.

 
 

Étape 6:

J'envoie main droite dans le second trou, qui lui est nettement meilleur que le premier.

 
 

Étape 7:

Je ramène ma main gauche dans le trou.

 
 

Étape 8:

J'envoie très loin mon pied gauche dans un bon trou. Et j'essaye de griffer un maximum avec la pointe de mon pied.

(Mouvement un peu morpho ...)

 
 

Étape 9:

Je jette main gauche sur un mauvais plat situé sur le dessus du bloc.

 
 

Étape 10:

Je retourne ma main droite en paume a fin de pouvoir m'écarter un peu du rocher et je remonte mon pied droit.

 
 

Étape 11:

Je pose mon pied droit sur le plat de l'étape 4.

 
 

Étape 12:

Et je n'ai plus cas me rétablir sur le dessus du bloc.

 

Conclusion:Je trouve ce bloc super sympa et plutôt réalisable pour la cotation, si l'on capte bien le coincement de talon du départ.
On peut aussi faire une variante (plus dur) en n'utilisant pas le bien a gauche de l'étape 8.

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